Gentleman's Rite Of Passage
My First Bespoke Suit
Buying your first bespoke suit is a rite of passage in every gentleman’s life and one which can exponentially affect the progress of your career. For those who are just starting the sartorial process though, it can be a daunting prospect simply due to the vast amount of options.
As a result, we’ve put together a guide that will help take you from choosing your fabric from some of the finest cloths through to the final fitting with ease, allowing you to experience the unique personal pleasure that only comes with bespoke custom suits.
Just starting out, you want to seek versatility. We recommend a two-piece, two button suit taken in a British style, which feature modern, slimmer and more lightweight construction that will help you get used to wearing a suit with regularity and also provide useful layering pieces.
Your two-button jacket can be paired with black jeans and a fitted t-shirt for a smart casual look, or matched with a different pair of complimentary trousers for some formal colour-blocked style.
By treating your bespoke suit not only as a singular item, but finely tailored single items that can be combined in a myriad of ways, your first suit can provide a hard-working office style beyond a simple formal setting.
To get started on your sartorial journey with SG, make an appointment either in one of our flagship stores or at a trunk show today.
The Lapel
That part on each side of your suit jacket immediately below the collar that is folded back on either side. Lapels can be notched (the most common style), peaked (lapels with “peaks” that point upward), or shawl (a continuous lapel without a notch or peak breaking the outer line).
Your lapel choice can drastically change the look of a jacket. Notch lapels are a failsafe option and peak lapels are more flamboyant, channeling plenty of Italian flair. Keep them slim in width for a more contemporary look and wider for a bolder appearance.
Shoulder Padding
Padded shoulders will create a powerful image and would therefore be perfect for the boardroom. Soft shoulders with little to no padding (spalla camicia) are perfect for the warmer months though, as they offer unbeatable comfort and an increased range of motion.
The Vents
The slits at the back of your jacket, vents allow for both a tailored fit and easy mobility. They also help keep the fabric from bunching and creasing as well as allow for more air flow. Choosing a jacket with one vent will give you a more tapered look while a double vented jacket will accentuate your build.
